Small Setback in Effort to Cap Oil in Gulf

In their latest setback in stopping the flow of crude oil gushing into the Gulf of Mexico, BP officials said on Saturday that they had failed to insert a mile-long tube into the riser of the leaking well on Friday night. But they hoped to reattach the pipe by late Saturday night, said BP’s chief operating officer, Doug Suttles.

“When they attempted to connect to it, the frame shifted, so they were unable to make the connection,” Mr. Suttles said at a news conference in Robert, La. Workers had to pull the device back to the surface to make adjustments, he said. Officials hope that the pipe, when connected, will help siphon oil into a tanker on the surface of the Gulf.The problem in this failed attempt, he said, had little to do with cold temperatures or high pressure that had foiled last week’s effort to cap the flow of leaking oil with a containment dome.

“It was just a mechanical act of taking a 5,000-foot long stream of pipe and connecting it to the tool,” Mr. Suttles said.

The Deepwater Horizon drilling rig exploded on April 20, killing 11 people and rupturing the well 5,000 feet below the surface. BP officials say the well is leaking 210,000 gallons of oil a day — an amount that some experts say is actually much higher.

Earlier in the day, the Obama administration released a letter it sent to BP, saying that the company would be responsible for those costs — not the American taxpayers — even if the cleanup exceeded the $75 million statutory liability cap.

Ken Salazar, the secretary of the Interior, and Janet Napolitano, the homeland security secretary, sought assurances from BP’s chief executive, Tony Hayward, that the company would not refuse compensation to “individuals or others harmed by the oil spill.”

“The public has a right to a clear understanding of BP’s commitment to redress all of the damage that has occurred or that will occur in the future as a result of the oil spill,” Mr. Salazar and Ms. Napolitano wrote.

.

BP and the United States Coast Guard also said on Saturday that one cleanup method seemed to be working. The application of undersea dispersants chemicals appeared to be successful in diminishing a small portion of the oil “in the immediate vicinity of the well,” Mr. Suttles said. One week ago on Saturday, BP officials admitted that their containment dome — thought to be the best immediate effort to collect a large portion of the leaking oil — had failed when ice-like crystals formed and rendered the 100-ton device ineffective.

Officials have a smaller structure, called a top hat, waiting on the seabed to be maneuvered over the biggest leak.

Meanwhile, officials are drilling a relief well to intersect with the leaking well. Officials said it had reached 9,000 feet below the ocean surface, about halfway to the planned intersection point. That will likely not begin siphoning oil for another couple of months.

If BP officials cannot successfully attach this pipe, it has another option waiting: the “junk shot.”

BP will resort to using golf balls, rope, plastic cubes and other miscellany to clog the plumbing of the safety mechanism known as the blowout preventer, and force the oil to stop flowing.

“We shall not rest, we shall not take a day off until we get this problem resolved,” Mr. Salazar said at the news conference.

Read more...

International leaders appeal for calm amid escalating violence on streets of Bangkok

Redshirts warn of civil war as Thai troops told to shoot on sight

Anti-government protesters with Molotov cocktails during clashes in Bangkok. Photograph: Damir Sagolj/Reuters

As Bangkok suffers its worst political unrest for two decades, the Thai army has declared parts of the city "live-fire zones", warning that anyone found entering certain roads in the capital will be shot on sight.

The move came as one of the leaders of the redshirt protesters said that there would be "civil war" if the army did not pull back and declare a ceasefire.

After two days of conflict, the army stepped up efforts to cut off the redshirts from the rest of the world, sealing off swaths of the city.

Troops have erected signs at Ratchaprarop Road, on the northern edge of the redshirts' camp, warning, in Thai and English: "No Entry, Restricted Area. Live Firing Zone". Protesters still risked their lives to harass troops, drawing fire as they ran across the deserted streets to hurl rocks and bottles. Others, including residents caught out by the army's sudden move, were seen fleeing the area with their hands above their heads.

Since violence re-erupted in Bangkok on Thursday with the shooting of renegade army general Seh Daeng, 24 people have been killed, bringing to 54 the death toll since 12 March. More than 1,100 have been injured, including more than 150 during the past three days.

International bodies called for calm as the UN secretary general, Ban Ki-moon, urged both sides to do everything in their power to avoid further loss of life. British ambassador Quinton Quayle and former US ambassador William Itoh have also called for the two sides to restart talks.

In the middle of the sprawling encampment in the heart of Bangkok's shopping and finance districts, redshirt leaders remained resolute. Weng Tojirakarn, head of the United Front for Democracy against Dictatorship, demanded the government declare a ceasefire and pull back its troops because "we don't want to see a civil war. If it does happen, I don't know how many years it will take to end."

Speaking publicly for the first time in two days, Thailand's prime minister, Abhisit Vejjajiva, said that his administration was acting in the interests of the majority of Thai people. "The government has no choice but to move forward [in ending the protest by force]," he said in an address carried live on every Thai TV channel.

"We have tried every other method to bring this to an end."

He asked that the people of Bangkok co-operate with the government's efforts and that protesters allow women and children to leave the camp.

On the streets, however, there is a growing realisation that the impasse will not end without further bloodshed. Behind the fortifications of bamboo staves and fuel-filled tyres, the redshirt guards say they are prepared to face the troops when they march in.

"We are all very afraid," Somchai Sanwong said as he manned the barricades, a few hundred yards from troop positions.

The redshirts have piles of rocks and Molotov cocktails stashed to hurl at troops when they finally advance. They also have gallons of motor vehicle oil to make the road slippery. Deeper inside the camp, sources say, the redshirts have dozens of M79 rocket-launched grenades. Several were fired last night at an inner-city police station.

"Obviously we're outgunned, outnumbered. In the worst case, if the soldiers come, we'll just burn the barricades," Somchai said.

In the no man's land between the redshirt fortifications and the troop roadblocks, some of the streets in Bangkok are eerily quiet. Businesses are shut and thousands of residents have fled.

The government says it has no timetable yet to order troops to march on the redshirts' barricades. It intends, for now, to restrict the protesters' communications and access to reinforcements, as well as supplies of food, water and power. After two days of porous army roadblocks that allowed supplies and thousands of extra protesters to reach the camp, movement in central Bangkok is now heavily restricted.

Vehicles and bags are being checked at roadblocks for supplies, and only those who can prove they are resident or work inside the cordoned-off area are allowed in.

Already there are reports of food shortages. By most estimates, the redshirts can only sustain themselves for a few more days.

Read more...

NAACP backs Obama's Supreme Court nominee Kagan

WASHINGTON — The NAACP is endorsing Supreme Court nominee Elena Kagan.

The nation's oldest and largest civil rights group on Saturday voted unanimously at a board meeting in Florida to back Kagan, who's President Barack Obama's choice to succeed retiring Justice John Paul Stevens.

Kagan is now solicitor general — that's the government's top lawyer at the Supreme Court.

NAACP president Benjamin Jealous says the NAACP was impressed by Kagan's work as a White House aide during the Clinton administration, including her work to strengthen hate crimes legislation and civil rights enforcement.

Jealous also noted that Kagan was effective in boosting enrollment of black and Hispanic students when she was Harvard Law School dean.

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Blasblog: Heaven Is A Tiny Little Place Called The Pianoke Room

I’ve followed the fine folks from Purple magazine all over the French Riviera this week (a quick visit to www.purple-diary.com could tell you as much, but please don’t forward some of those pictures to my mom). Their fourth annual Cannes Film Festival fête, held last night at a temporary seaside outpost of Le Baron, made for a fabulous finale. Things were typically Purple: deviant behavior masterminds Olivier Zahm and André Saraiva for ringleaders, a DJ set from Caroline Gaimari (center, above), and loads and loads of pretty people. Liya Kebede was there fresh from the Chopard Female Revelation award we told you about yesterday, having a dance-off with her entourage. And while a supermodel dance-off is typically a highlight for me, this party had something even better: a tiny little space referred to as the Pianoke Room, only accessible via a small door within a door, where sing-alongs took place. That meant a live pianist (who someone told me was a former gigolo) led all the hipsters on renditions of show tunes. I mean, I was in heaven!

—Derek Blasberg

Read more...

Posen To Paris (Peut-Être), Models On Wall Street, And More…

Next season, Zac Posen is showing in Paris, where “they understand” his clothes. Or, well, he may be showing in Paris, since showing in New York in “today’s climate” is “difficult.” Confused? Guess the designer is, too. Nothing’s been decided, but it sounds like Posen has set his sights on the City of Light.[WWD]

Naomi Watts has been tapped to play Marilyn Monroe in the screen adaptation of Joyce Carol Oates’ fictionalized memoirBlonde. Ms. Watts, you’ve got some curvin’ up to do. [Page Six]

Bankers’ lunch breaks today will come with eye candy. Express celebrates its 30th anniversary this afternoon with a Wall Street fashion show, featuring Alek Wek, Izabel Goulart, and Flavia de Oliveira. The bonuses, it seems, keep coming. [Modelinia]

—Alison Baenen

Read more...

Blasblog: Heaven Is A Tiny Little Place Called The Pianoke Room

I’ve followed the fine folks from Purple magazine all over the French Riviera this week (a quick visit to www.purple-diary.com could tell you as much, but please don’t forward some of those pictures to my mom). Their fourth annual Cannes Film Festival fête, held last night at a temporary seaside outpost of Le Baron, made for a fabulous finale. Things were typically Purple: deviant behavior masterminds Olivier Zahm and André Saraiva for ringleaders, a DJ set from Caroline Gaimari (center, above), and loads and loads of pretty people. Liya Kebede was there fresh from the Chopard Female Revelation award we told you about yesterday, having a dance-off with her entourage. And while a supermodel dance-off is typically a highlight for me, this party had something even better: a tiny little space referred to as the Pianoke Room, only accessible via a small door within a door, where sing-alongs took place. That meant a live pianist (who someone told me was a former gigolo) led all the hipsters on renditions of show tunes. I mean, I was in heaven!

—Derek Blasberg

Read more...

Posen To Paris (Peut-Être), Models On Wall Street, And More…

Next season, Zac Posen is showing in Paris, where “they understand” his clothes. Or, well, he may be showing in Paris, since showing in New York in “today’s climate” is “difficult.” Confused? Guess the designer is, too. Nothing’s been decided, but it sounds like Posen has set his sights on the City of Light.[WWD]

Naomi Watts has been tapped to play Marilyn Monroe in the screen adaptation of Joyce Carol Oates’ fictionalized memoirBlonde. Ms. Watts, you’ve got some curvin’ up to do. [Page Six]

Bankers’ lunch breaks today will come with eye candy. Express celebrates its 30th anniversary this afternoon with a Wall Street fashion show, featuring Alek Wek, Izabel Goulart, and Flavia de Oliveira. The bonuses, it seems, keep coming. [Modelinia]

—Alison Baenen

Read more...

Showstopping Gowns—And Sentiments, Too—At Pratt’s Graduation Show

There were proud parents aplenty at last night’s 2010 Pratt Institute Fashion Show. The evening’s honoree, Catherine Malandrino, gave a heartfelt speech thanking the fashion folk in her adopted New York City, then humbly handed off the baton, telling the young designers backstage that it was their turn to move fashion forward. One suspects they will—the many graduate sportswear collections that strutted down the runway featured everything from a natty take on English home counties gear (Abby Powell) to a camp take on rockabilly (Julie Ann) to Margiela-by-way-of-Beyoncé conceptual curve-skimming clothes (from the design trio twentyten). Then there was Michael Jackson, who arrived courtesy of costumer Rayneese V. Primrose’s award-winning “Thriller: Death to the Homecoming Queen” designs. Along with her Michael manque, who moonwalked down the catwalk in red leather and studs, Primrose had got up a model in a gigantic gothic gown as detailed in its frothy construction as much of what shows up at the couture (pictured above). (Style.com humbly submits that if Primrose does not immediately find employment in Hollywood or on Broadway, she should move to Paris and apprentice with John Galliano.) Even Primrose’s gown wasn’t as gigantic, however, as the showstopping number created by Eveningwear award winner Timothy Kuzmeski, which required two attendants to help move it down the runway. Kuzmeski had another showstopper up his sleeve, too—when all the designers came onstage for their bows, he turned up in a T-shirt hand-embellished with a sentiment that nicely summed up the evening. It said: “Thanks Mom + Dad!”

—Maya Singer

Read more...

Yea, Nay, Or Eh: A Spot Or Two

If you need further proof than our latest In the Mood For featurethat polka dots are a spring must-have, witness this snap of Ashley Greene. The Twilight star donned this D&G minidress in Hollywood earlier this week, picking up on a trend we’ve recently—heh—spotted on Rachel Bilson, Alexa Chung, and Kate Bosworth. We like that Greene kept the accessories clean here; oversize dots are accent enough, after all. What do you think? Will you be wearing spots this summer?

—Romney Leader

Read more...

Showstopping Gowns—And Sentiments, Too—At Pratt’s Graduation Show

There were proud parents aplenty at last night’s 2010 Pratt Institute Fashion Show. The evening’s honoree, Catherine Malandrino, gave a heartfelt speech thanking the fashion folk in her adopted New York City, then humbly handed off the baton, telling the young designers backstage that it was their turn to move fashion forward. One suspects they will—the many graduate sportswear collections that strutted down the runway featured everything from a natty take on English home counties gear (Abby Powell) to a camp take on rockabilly (Julie Ann) to Margiela-by-way-of-Beyoncé conceptual curve-skimming clothes (from the design trio twentyten). Then there was Michael Jackson, who arrived courtesy of costumer Rayneese V. Primrose’s award-winning “Thriller: Death to the Homecoming Queen” designs. Along with her Michael manque, who moonwalked down the catwalk in red leather and studs, Primrose had got up a model in a gigantic gothic gown as detailed in its frothy construction as much of what shows up at the couture (pictured above). (Style.com humbly submits that if Primrose does not immediately find employment in Hollywood or on Broadway, she should move to Paris and apprentice with John Galliano.) Even Primrose’s gown wasn’t as gigantic, however, as the showstopping number created by Eveningwear award winner Timothy Kuzmeski, which required two attendants to help move it down the runway. Kuzmeski had another showstopper up his sleeve, too—when all the designers came onstage for their bows, he turned up in a T-shirt hand-embellished with a sentiment that nicely summed up the evening. It said: “Thanks Mom + Dad!”

—Maya Singer

Read more...

Yea, Nay, Or Eh: A Spot Or Two

If you need further proof than our latest In the Mood For featurethat polka dots are a spring must-have, witness this snap of Ashley Greene. The Twilight star donned this D&G minidress in Hollywood earlier this week, picking up on a trend we’ve recently—heh—spotted on Rachel Bilson, Alexa Chung, and Kate Bosworth. We like that Greene kept the accessories clean here; oversize dots are accent enough, after all. What do you think? Will you be wearing spots this summer?

—Romney Leader

Read more...

Caught By The Fuzz?

If you’re planning on investing in some shearling come fall, you won’t be alone. Countless designers turned out fuzzy jackets on the runways, and top models were snapped donning covetable vintage versions backstage—all but guaranteeing the material will be a must-have when the temperatures near freezing again. Should you prefer not to wait that long, we suggest exploring the trend as an accent piece, à la Prada’s detachable collar or Pringle’s trimmed sweater, which designer Clare Waight Keller liked for its “rugged appeal.” At Hermès (left) and Trussardi 1911, shearling lent ladylike totes a similar outdoorsy vibe, even if the only air they’ll likely be exposed to is the kind between town car and town house.
and let us know how you plan to wear shearling this fall.

—Romney Leader

Read more...

On Our Radar: Marcello De Cartier Saddle Bag

Jewelry? Of course. Watches? For sure. But as far as I’m concerned, most people overlook one of Cartier’s chicest categories: leather goods. That could change, though, with the launch of the house’s new Marcello de Cartier saddle bag. It comes in three sizes and all the usual colors (black, brown, and camel). My favorite is the not-so-usual cherry red; I think it’ll look adorable paired with high-waisted denim and a navy blazer. If you like the cherry red, too, don’t hesitate; it’s a limited-edition.


Marcello de Cartier saddle bag in cherry red leather, medium model, limited edition, $1,500. Available at Cartier boutiques nationwide this June. For more information, call (800) CARTIER.

—Marina Larroude

Read more...

Caught By The Fuzz?

If you’re planning on investing in some shearling come fall, you won’t be alone. Countless designers turned out fuzzy jackets on the runways, and top models were snapped donning covetable vintage versions backstage—all but guaranteeing the material will be a must-have when the temperatures near freezing again. Should you prefer not to wait that long, we suggest exploring the trend as an accent piece, à la Prada’s detachable collar or Pringle’s trimmed sweater, which designer Clare Waight Keller liked for its “rugged appeal.” At Hermès (left) and Trussardi 1911, shearling lent ladylike totes a similar outdoorsy vibe, even if the only air they’ll likely be exposed to is the kind between town car and town house.
and let us know how you plan to wear shearling this fall.

—Romney Leader

Read more...

On Our Radar: Marcello De Cartier Saddle Bag

Jewelry? Of course. Watches? For sure. But as far as I’m concerned, most people overlook one of Cartier’s chicest categories: leather goods. That could change, though, with the launch of the house’s new Marcello de Cartier saddle bag. It comes in three sizes and all the usual colors (black, brown, and camel). My favorite is the not-so-usual cherry red; I think it’ll look adorable paired with high-waisted denim and a navy blazer. If you like the cherry red, too, don’t hesitate; it’s a limited-edition.


Marcello de Cartier saddle bag in cherry red leather, medium model, limited edition, $1,500. Available at Cartier boutiques nationwide this June. For more information, call (800) CARTIER.

—Marina Larroude

Read more...

Ray-Ban and Iggy Pop Rock Williamsburg

Kate Bosworth

Photo By Steve Eichner

Celebrities ventured into Brooklyn on Wednesday night as Ray-Ban threw a rock ’n’ roll extravaganza at the Music Hall of Williamsburg to promote new looks for its Aviator eyewear.

By the time Iggy & the Stooges hit the stage, the crowd barely fit into the space, which was lined with oversize metal trunks displaying decorated Aviator styles.

Among the celebrities who checked out the wares between sets were Chloë Sevigny, Justin Long, Jessica Stam, Agyness Deyn, Waris Ahluwalia, Justin Theroux, Charlotte Ronson, Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock and singer-songwriter Matt White.

Juliette Lewis caused a ruckus with her arrival, clad in the rocker uniform of cropped leather jacket and jeans. Lewis chatted about her own musical pursuits. She’s the lead singer for Juliette and The Licks, which soon will tour in Switzerland, and she elaborated on the difference between acting and her musical ambitions: “The band’s exciting because I write the songs, I sing them — it’s like being the director, actor and producer all in one. But acting is a much more collaborative process, which I love, too. Music is really my soul fire.”

Kate Bosworth said she was “being responsible” and nursed a single beer in order to be ready for filming at 6 a.m. Thursday. Before Iggy Pop went onstage, Bosworth’s beau and “True Blood” star Alexander Skarsgård made his way through the crowd to watch the performance at Bosworth’s side.

Kelly Osbourne also took in the music from the VIP section, speaking in reverent tones of how Pop, 63, “has so much energy, it’s unbelievable.”

Read more...

Ray-Ban and Iggy Pop Rock Williamsburg

Kate Bosworth

Photo By Steve Eichner

Celebrities ventured into Brooklyn on Wednesday night as Ray-Ban threw a rock ’n’ roll extravaganza at the Music Hall of Williamsburg to promote new looks for its Aviator eyewear.

By the time Iggy & the Stooges hit the stage, the crowd barely fit into the space, which was lined with oversize metal trunks displaying decorated Aviator styles.

Among the celebrities who checked out the wares between sets were Chloë Sevigny, Justin Long, Jessica Stam, Agyness Deyn, Waris Ahluwalia, Justin Theroux, Charlotte Ronson, Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock and singer-songwriter Matt White.

Juliette Lewis caused a ruckus with her arrival, clad in the rocker uniform of cropped leather jacket and jeans. Lewis chatted about her own musical pursuits. She’s the lead singer for Juliette and The Licks, which soon will tour in Switzerland, and she elaborated on the difference between acting and her musical ambitions: “The band’s exciting because I write the songs, I sing them — it’s like being the director, actor and producer all in one. But acting is a much more collaborative process, which I love, too. Music is really my soul fire.”

Kate Bosworth said she was “being responsible” and nursed a single beer in order to be ready for filming at 6 a.m. Thursday. Before Iggy Pop went onstage, Bosworth’s beau and “True Blood” star Alexander Skarsgård made his way through the crowd to watch the performance at Bosworth’s side.

Kelly Osbourne also took in the music from the VIP section, speaking in reverent tones of how Pop, 63, “has so much energy, it’s unbelievable.”

Read more...

Chanel Cruise 2011

Chanel Cruise 2011

Photo By Giovanni Giannoni

With that declaration, Karl Lagerfeld summoned another rich fashion moment, parading Chanel’s cruise collection at sunset in front of Sénéquier, a mythic cafe with endless rows of red director’s chairs from which to watch the beautiful people stroll by.

Click here to see all the looks>>

Click here to see front-row>>

Having spent more than four decades — on and off — soaking up the jet-set Riviera culture, Lagerfeld let rip a youthful and fetching collection. The models disembarked from a boat and strolled barefoot in tunics, jumpsuits and loose trousers with a yacht-stuffed harbor as the backdrop, evoking the hedonistic, holiday spirit of this legendary town.

“There’s something magical about Saint-Tropez. It’s so easy, and it doesn’t require overcomplicated clothes. It’s not a bling-bling place, it’s a natural place,” he said during fittings here on Monday, dressed head to toe in pale gray, the sun streaming in through the open doors of the Pan Deï Palais hotel.

In strolled a model in a psychedelic print chiffon dress, with a fitted bodice and a free-flowing skirt. “This you can wear for daytime. You don’t need a ball for [it],” Lagerfeld declared.

At the show, Chanel ambassador Vanessa Paradis tucked her small frame into a second-row seat to avoid the paparazzi scrum. She lauded the “beauty of the old city, the colors of the building and the water” in the vacation spot of her childhood. “I played percussion with the Gypsy Kings here when I was six,” she said, flashing her signature gap-tooth smile.

“It’s definitely a party town,” added Diane Kruger, who showed off her competitive streak Monday night during a Chanel-organized pétanque tournament. “We won three games,” she enthused.

The actress is on vacation, but is heading to Uzbekistan for her next movie role. “I play a French journalist who gets kidnapped by the Taliban,” she said.

Gaspard Ulliel, who is heading to the Cannes Film Festival for the premiere of his next feature, “La princesse de Montpensier,” said it was his first time in Saint-Tropez, which he equates with French celebrities and summertime frolicking. “It has a real atmosphere. It’s electric,” he said, surveying the crowds clustered on balconies or behind barricades to catch a glimpse of the fashion spectacle about to unfold.

Lagerfeld, who spends August sequestered at his villa at hideaway hotel La Réserve in nearby Ramatuelle, has seen Saint-Tropez in its heydays, shunned it in the Nineties, and saw it roar back in the past decade. He spends his time here much as he does in Paris — working, reading, sketching and daydreaming — albeit with magnificent Mediterranean vistas and with a quality of light to inspire any painter.

On occasion, he’ll cause a ruckus and descend into town to visit his favorite pharmacy, perfumery or Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent shop, where Lady Amanda Harlech scored some “Avatar”-esque blue mirrored sunglasses. The VIP room, where Chanel’s after party was held, is another of the designer’s favorite addresses.

Lagerfeld said the collection was meant to evoke “the idea of Saint-Tropez,” from the sun-kissed colors of the port to iconic films such as “And God Created Woman” and its star, Brigitte Bardot. In his collection — and in the 17-minute film “Remember Now” he screened Monday night — were winks to French writer Colette, Françoise Hardy, Alain Delon and Mick and Bianca Jagger.

While often verging toward a vintage look — CC-logoed denim bell-bottoms, anyone? — the collection’s Sixties and Seventies references were mostly good fun, especially the chemise dresses, all manner of tunics, wide-leg pants and tubular dresses. A series of abundant white cotton looks, each cinched with a sash, were terrific, as were the long sundresses with tiered skirts. Low-heeled sandals and handbags in Vichy prints headlined the news in accessories.

Cruise represents an increasing, all-doors business for Chanel, including fast-growing emerging markets, according to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion. “Business is booming for this kind of delivery,” he said.
Never mind climate change: According to Pavlovsky, “Customers love to see spring product in the boutiques in November.”

And though summer weather has yet to heat up much of Europe, many of Chanel’s well-heeled customers are almost ready to buy winter coats, and they’re in luck: The luxury pre-fall métiers d’art collection Lagerfeld showed in Shanghai in December is hitting stores now

Read more...

Chanel Cruise 2011

Chanel Cruise 2011

Photo By Giovanni Giannoni

With that declaration, Karl Lagerfeld summoned another rich fashion moment, parading Chanel’s cruise collection at sunset in front of Sénéquier, a mythic cafe with endless rows of red director’s chairs from which to watch the beautiful people stroll by.

Click here to see all the looks>>

Click here to see front-row>>

Having spent more than four decades — on and off — soaking up the jet-set Riviera culture, Lagerfeld let rip a youthful and fetching collection. The models disembarked from a boat and strolled barefoot in tunics, jumpsuits and loose trousers with a yacht-stuffed harbor as the backdrop, evoking the hedonistic, holiday spirit of this legendary town.

“There’s something magical about Saint-Tropez. It’s so easy, and it doesn’t require overcomplicated clothes. It’s not a bling-bling place, it’s a natural place,” he said during fittings here on Monday, dressed head to toe in pale gray, the sun streaming in through the open doors of the Pan Deï Palais hotel.

In strolled a model in a psychedelic print chiffon dress, with a fitted bodice and a free-flowing skirt. “This you can wear for daytime. You don’t need a ball for [it],” Lagerfeld declared.

At the show, Chanel ambassador Vanessa Paradis tucked her small frame into a second-row seat to avoid the paparazzi scrum. She lauded the “beauty of the old city, the colors of the building and the water” in the vacation spot of her childhood. “I played percussion with the Gypsy Kings here when I was six,” she said, flashing her signature gap-tooth smile.

“It’s definitely a party town,” added Diane Kruger, who showed off her competitive streak Monday night during a Chanel-organized pétanque tournament. “We won three games,” she enthused.

The actress is on vacation, but is heading to Uzbekistan for her next movie role. “I play a French journalist who gets kidnapped by the Taliban,” she said.

Gaspard Ulliel, who is heading to the Cannes Film Festival for the premiere of his next feature, “La princesse de Montpensier,” said it was his first time in Saint-Tropez, which he equates with French celebrities and summertime frolicking. “It has a real atmosphere. It’s electric,” he said, surveying the crowds clustered on balconies or behind barricades to catch a glimpse of the fashion spectacle about to unfold.

Lagerfeld, who spends August sequestered at his villa at hideaway hotel La Réserve in nearby Ramatuelle, has seen Saint-Tropez in its heydays, shunned it in the Nineties, and saw it roar back in the past decade. He spends his time here much as he does in Paris — working, reading, sketching and daydreaming — albeit with magnificent Mediterranean vistas and with a quality of light to inspire any painter.

On occasion, he’ll cause a ruckus and descend into town to visit his favorite pharmacy, perfumery or Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent shop, where Lady Amanda Harlech scored some “Avatar”-esque blue mirrored sunglasses. The VIP room, where Chanel’s after party was held, is another of the designer’s favorite addresses.

Lagerfeld said the collection was meant to evoke “the idea of Saint-Tropez,” from the sun-kissed colors of the port to iconic films such as “And God Created Woman” and its star, Brigitte Bardot. In his collection — and in the 17-minute film “Remember Now” he screened Monday night — were winks to French writer Colette, Françoise Hardy, Alain Delon and Mick and Bianca Jagger.

While often verging toward a vintage look — CC-logoed denim bell-bottoms, anyone? — the collection’s Sixties and Seventies references were mostly good fun, especially the chemise dresses, all manner of tunics, wide-leg pants and tubular dresses. A series of abundant white cotton looks, each cinched with a sash, were terrific, as were the long sundresses with tiered skirts. Low-heeled sandals and handbags in Vichy prints headlined the news in accessories.

Cruise represents an increasing, all-doors business for Chanel, including fast-growing emerging markets, according to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion. “Business is booming for this kind of delivery,” he said.
Never mind climate change: According to Pavlovsky, “Customers love to see spring product in the boutiques in November.”

And though summer weather has yet to heat up much of Europe, many of Chanel’s well-heeled customers are almost ready to buy winter coats, and they’re in luck: The luxury pre-fall métiers d’art collection Lagerfeld showed in Shanghai in December is hitting stores now

Read more...