Tie-Dyeing: It’s A Good Thing; DVF Flies South; And More…
The surest sign that spring is here: The shirts are off outside of Hollister. [Racked]
From their parlor to yours: Parlor showroom—which reps lines like Timo Weiland, Rachel Antonoff, and Samantha Pleet—is taking its show on the road, driving an RV cross-country to sell Fall 2010 directly to consumers. Well, when retail’s down… [Fashionista]
And DVF adds a new continent to her worldwide empire. The designer opened her first South American store in Brasília’s new Iguatemí Mall, and André Leon Talley curated an exhibition of Diane-iana (but of course) for the occasion. [WWD]
Everything’s Bigger In Texas, Even The Deconstructed Disco Ball
The traditional tenth anniversary gift is tin or aluminum. For the tenth anniversary of their Dallas store Forty Five Ten, Brian Bolke and Shelly Musselman (pictured) kept to the glittery spirit, if not the letter, of the law. Bolke and Musselman hosted the gala in a gold lamé tux jacket from Dsquared², and a mirrored Margiela gown, respectively. Musselman said what we were all thinking: “In our heart of hearts, don’t we all really want to be a deconstructed disco ball at the end of day?” Well, maybe what some of us were thinking. She paused and added oracularly: “It sees everything.” As for Bolke, he let his Moschino tee do the talking: “Shop.”
But shop they did, of high-end European labels and exclusive tenth anniversary items by attendees Doo-Ri Chung, Narciso Rodriguez, and Koi Suwannagate. (Carry a designer for a decade or so and you’re bound to rack up a few favors.) DJ Lucy Wrubel’s silver Moschino mini, embossed with the phrase “Fashion Must Go On,” certainly inspired the hundreds of loyal clients to drop their Centurion cards, at least when they weren’t juggling flutes of Dom Pérignon or pork hors d’oeuvres three ways (taco, tempura, and slider—this may be fashion, but it’s still Texas).
At 10 p.m., Raven Kauffman (in vintage Mila Schön), Suzanne Wilson (in DVF), and I headed to Kenny Goss and George Michael’s Highland Park home for more Champagne and a viewing of their amazing British art collection, including works by Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, and an amazing Angus Fairhurst gorilla displayed by the pool. The party continued, and close to midnight, the last guest arrived: the pizza boy. The famished crowd went wild. McQueen-clad Houston social Becca Cason Thrash confessed, “It’s Domino’s, and it’s divine!”
Tie-Dyeing: It’s A Good Thing; DVF Flies South; And More…
The surest sign that spring is here: The shirts are off outside of Hollister. [Racked]
From their parlor to yours: Parlor showroom—which reps lines like Timo Weiland, Rachel Antonoff, and Samantha Pleet—is taking its show on the road, driving an RV cross-country to sell Fall 2010 directly to consumers. Well, when retail’s down… [Fashionista]
And DVF adds a new continent to her worldwide empire. The designer opened her first South American store in Brasília’s new Iguatemí Mall, and André Leon Talley curated an exhibition of Diane-iana (but of course) for the occasion. [WWD]
Everything’s Bigger In Texas, Even The Deconstructed Disco Ball
The traditional tenth anniversary gift is tin or aluminum. For the tenth anniversary of their Dallas store Forty Five Ten, Brian Bolke and Shelly Musselman (pictured) kept to the glittery spirit, if not the letter, of the law. Bolke and Musselman hosted the gala in a gold lamé tux jacket from Dsquared², and a mirrored Margiela gown, respectively. Musselman said what we were all thinking: “In our heart of hearts, don’t we all really want to be a deconstructed disco ball at the end of day?” Well, maybe what some of us were thinking. She paused and added oracularly: “It sees everything.” As for Bolke, he let his Moschino tee do the talking: “Shop.”
But shop they did, of high-end European labels and exclusive tenth anniversary items by attendees Doo-Ri Chung, Narciso Rodriguez, and Koi Suwannagate. (Carry a designer for a decade or so and you’re bound to rack up a few favors.) DJ Lucy Wrubel’s silver Moschino mini, embossed with the phrase “Fashion Must Go On,” certainly inspired the hundreds of loyal clients to drop their Centurion cards, at least when they weren’t juggling flutes of Dom Pérignon or pork hors d’oeuvres three ways (taco, tempura, and slider—this may be fashion, but it’s still Texas).
At 10 p.m., Raven Kauffman (in vintage Mila Schön), Suzanne Wilson (in DVF), and I headed to Kenny Goss and George Michael’s Highland Park home for more Champagne and a viewing of their amazing British art collection, including works by Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, and an amazing Angus Fairhurst gorilla displayed by the pool. The party continued, and close to midnight, the last guest arrived: the pizza boy. The famished crowd went wild. McQueen-clad Houston social Becca Cason Thrash confessed, “It’s Domino’s, and it’s divine!”
Dior just unveiled its latest Lady Dior campaign with Marion Cotillard, “Lady Blue,” which finds the actress (and her covetable bag, of course) in Shanghai, where John Galliano will unveil his cruise collection on May 15. Steven Klein lensed the campaign and David Lynch shot an accompanying video, which features Cotillard reciting a poem he wrote inspired the city’s Oriental Pearl Tower. Of course.Dior’s Blue Mood
Dior just unveiled its latest Lady Dior campaign with Marion Cotillard, “Lady Blue,” which finds the actress (and her covetable bag, of course) in Shanghai, where John Galliano will unveil his cruise collection on May 15. Steven Klein lensed the campaign and David Lynch shot an accompanying video, which features Cotillard reciting a poem he wrote inspired the city’s Oriental Pearl Tower. Of course.Dior’s Blue Mood
Don’t think I’m a broken record or anything, but I haven’t been able to stop talking about the Kitten Heel Tokyo Takeover. At least now I can report some sociological findings, too. I was speaking with Kay, another translator, today, and she explained the trend as a cultural response: The women she knows in this town just aren’t willing to sacrifice comfort for style. With their smaller, wider feet, her Japanese friends aren’t attracted to the kind of really high heels we see in New York at all, especially given that Tokyo’s geography involves quite a bit of bus, train, and foot traffic. Later in the day I spoke with Nobuyuki Ota, one of the board members of the Japan Fashion Week council and the president of Issey Miyake. He told me that one of the biggest challenges for young designers working in Tokyo today is trying to strike a balance between marketability at home and avant-garde credibility abroad. His designers know that, like sky-high heels, Balmain-esque miniskirts or LV-style cleavage won’t fly in this town, which is why so many shows look to their Japanese predecessors for inspiration, like Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Kenzo. Drawing on the history of homegrown talent, as the label Support System did with its fresh take on minimalism (above), worked well. On the other hand, In-Progress’ attempt to mix some Balmania sexiness with japonaiserie fell flat. For the record, my favorite show so far has been Dress & Co, a line that is sold at the eight-level Opening Ceremony outpost in Shibuya, and which managed to remain respectful to Japanese manners and check off a few trends, too.Blasblog: The Old, The New, And, Yes, The Kitten Meet In Japan
Despite acknowledging the (mostly) interesting way that many of the designers take on the trends coming out of Paris and New York, I was delighted to catch a traditional kimono fashion show last night, which included more than 50 traditional Japanese robes (below). There were a few stabs at modernization here, too—hence the live performer singing and sashaying down the runway, a couple of men’s looks, and some new color schemes that didn’t seem entirely appropriate—but they reinforced what is so beautiful about the traditional dress. It was a lovely reminder of why Japanese style and culture has been revered for centuries.
Don’t think I’m a broken record or anything, but I haven’t been able to stop talking about the Kitten Heel Tokyo Takeover. At least now I can report some sociological findings, too. I was speaking with Kay, another translator, today, and she explained the trend as a cultural response: The women she knows in this town just aren’t willing to sacrifice comfort for style. With their smaller, wider feet, her Japanese friends aren’t attracted to the kind of really high heels we see in New York at all, especially given that Tokyo’s geography involves quite a bit of bus, train, and foot traffic. Later in the day I spoke with Nobuyuki Ota, one of the board members of the Japan Fashion Week council and the president of Issey Miyake. He told me that one of the biggest challenges for young designers working in Tokyo today is trying to strike a balance between marketability at home and avant-garde credibility abroad. His designers know that, like sky-high heels, Balmain-esque miniskirts or LV-style cleavage won’t fly in this town, which is why so many shows look to their Japanese predecessors for inspiration, like Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Kenzo. Drawing on the history of homegrown talent, as the label Support System did with its fresh take on minimalism (above), worked well. On the other hand, In-Progress’ attempt to mix some Balmania sexiness with japonaiserie fell flat. For the record, my favorite show so far has been Dress & Co, a line that is sold at the eight-level Opening Ceremony outpost in Shibuya, and which managed to remain respectful to Japanese manners and check off a few trends, too.Blasblog: The Old, The New, And, Yes, The Kitten Meet In Japan
Despite acknowledging the (mostly) interesting way that many of the designers take on the trends coming out of Paris and New York, I was delighted to catch a traditional kimono fashion show last night, which included more than 50 traditional Japanese robes (below). There were a few stabs at modernization here, too—hence the live performer singing and sashaying down the runway, a couple of men’s looks, and some new color schemes that didn’t seem entirely appropriate—but they reinforced what is so beautiful about the traditional dress. It was a lovely reminder of why Japanese style and culture has been revered for centuries.
Peter Pilotto’s Only Happy When It Rains
Quiet On The Set, Please, Someone’s Butt Is Getting Bit
Known as a creator of classy, feminine photographs but not necessarily as a people person, Stern spent most of the evening downstairs in the quieter men’s department; upstairs, the swirl included jewelry designer Eddie Borgo and style documentarians Scott Schuman and Garance Doré. Lorenzo Martone found himself toting around Jessica White’s bag while she did some shopping. “Light-colored things,” White (pictured, right) explained. “I like very dark colors, but I’m going to lighten up my hair for the springtime—it’s going to be a reddish-brown. So it’s about soft, neutral colors.”
While her friend and fellow model Irina Shayk (pictured, left) wandered off with the personal shopper they were sharing, White recounted getting in trouble not so long ago for racy pictures leaked from the set of the latest Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. “We did a sandwich position where the photographer and the makeup artist were biting my buttocks. People took it really seriously. I had to make a public statement. So now I won’t allow people to take photographs on set anymore. They can’t photograph me getting my butt bit,” she explained. Presumably, that’s never been an issue for Stern.
Peter Pilotto’s Only Happy When It Rains
Quiet On The Set, Please, Someone’s Butt Is Getting Bit
Known as a creator of classy, feminine photographs but not necessarily as a people person, Stern spent most of the evening downstairs in the quieter men’s department; upstairs, the swirl included jewelry designer Eddie Borgo and style documentarians Scott Schuman and Garance Doré. Lorenzo Martone found himself toting around Jessica White’s bag while she did some shopping. “Light-colored things,” White (pictured, right) explained. “I like very dark colors, but I’m going to lighten up my hair for the springtime—it’s going to be a reddish-brown. So it’s about soft, neutral colors.”
While her friend and fellow model Irina Shayk (pictured, left) wandered off with the personal shopper they were sharing, White recounted getting in trouble not so long ago for racy pictures leaked from the set of the latest Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. “We did a sandwich position where the photographer and the makeup artist were biting my buttocks. People took it really seriously. I had to make a public statement. So now I won’t allow people to take photographs on set anymore. They can’t photograph me getting my butt bit,” she explained. Presumably, that’s never been an issue for Stern.
A New Eyewear Line Feels The Freeway
There aren’t too many people lining up to celebrate the L.A. Freeway. But for his new optical line, Alex Israel wanted something emblematically Californian. Short of the Hollywood sign, there’s not much more iconic than that. “One of my main focuses and interests as an artist is the tradition and history of Southern California, and in the creation of a specific kind of a regional aesthetic that’s very much related to the landscape,” the USC Fine Arts graduate explains. And when the time came to pick a girl to model for the six hand-carved styles for the Anthony Friedkin-lensed lookbook, Israel went with someone he considered a true Angelena (a current residence in NYC notwithstanding): Harley Viera-Newton. “You can always take the girl out of L.A., but you can’t take the L.A. out of the girl,” he said of the DJ-turned-model. “Harley has this kind of amazing sophistication and carefree spirit that kind of embodies the ethos of Southern California.” (He might’ve discovered it years earlier. As they discovered, Israel and Viera-Newton had gone to the same L.A. high school.) That’s a low-effort cool that should translate well within SoCal and without. The frames—available in black, gray, and white, in both matte and glossy finishes—are understated, chic, and (perhaps most surprisingly) $100.
Freeway Eyewear is available at its Web site, The Smile, and Gagosian Shop in NYC, and Maxfield in L.A.
A New Eyewear Line Feels The Freeway
There aren’t too many people lining up to celebrate the L.A. Freeway. But for his new optical line, Alex Israel wanted something emblematically Californian. Short of the Hollywood sign, there’s not much more iconic than that. “One of my main focuses and interests as an artist is the tradition and history of Southern California, and in the creation of a specific kind of a regional aesthetic that’s very much related to the landscape,” the USC Fine Arts graduate explains. And when the time came to pick a girl to model for the six hand-carved styles for the Anthony Friedkin-lensed lookbook, Israel went with someone he considered a true Angelena (a current residence in NYC notwithstanding): Harley Viera-Newton. “You can always take the girl out of L.A., but you can’t take the L.A. out of the girl,” he said of the DJ-turned-model. “Harley has this kind of amazing sophistication and carefree spirit that kind of embodies the ethos of Southern California.” (He might’ve discovered it years earlier. As they discovered, Israel and Viera-Newton had gone to the same L.A. high school.) That’s a low-effort cool that should translate well within SoCal and without. The frames—available in black, gray, and white, in both matte and glossy finishes—are understated, chic, and (perhaps most surprisingly) $100.
Freeway Eyewear is available at its Web site, The Smile, and Gagosian Shop in NYC, and Maxfield in L.A.
Gucci autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: EYES
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11The Line Up
Everything’s Bigger In Texas, Even The Deconstructed Disco Ball
The traditional tenth anniversary gift is tin or aluminum. For the tenth anniversary of their Dallas store Forty Five Ten, Brian Bolke and Shelly Musselman (pictured) kept to the glittery spirit, if not the letter, of the law. Bolke and Musselman hosted the gala in a gold lamé tux jacket from Dsquared², and a mirrored Margiela gown, respectively. Musselman said what we were all thinking: “In our heart of hearts, don’t we all really want to be a deconstructed disco ball at the end of day?” Well, maybe what some of us were thinking. She paused and added oracularly: “It sees everything.” As for Bolke, he let his Moschino tee do the talking: “Shop.”
But shop they did, of high-end European labels and exclusive tenth anniversary items by attendees Doo-Ri Chung, Narciso Rodriguez, and Koi Suwannagate. (Carry a designer for a decade or so and you’re bound to rack up a few favors.) DJ Lucy Wrubel’s silver Moschino mini, embossed with the phrase “Fashion Must Go On,” certainly inspired the hundreds of loyal clients to drop their Centurion cards, at least when they weren’t juggling flutes of Dom Pérignon or pork hors d’oeuvres three ways (taco, tempura, and slider—this may be fashion, but it’s still Texas).
At 10 p.m., Raven Kauffman (in vintage Mila Schön), Suzanne Wilson (in DVF), and I headed to Kenny Goss and George Michael’s Highland Park home for more Champagne and a viewing of their amazing British art collection, including works by Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, and an amazing Angus Fairhurst gorilla displayed by the pool. The party continued, and close to midnight, the last guest arrived: the pizza boy. The famished crowd went wild. McQueen-clad Houston social Becca Cason Thrash confessed, “It’s Domino’s, and it’s divine!”
Gucci autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: EYES
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11The Line Up
Everything’s Bigger In Texas, Even The Deconstructed Disco Ball
The traditional tenth anniversary gift is tin or aluminum. For the tenth anniversary of their Dallas store Forty Five Ten, Brian Bolke and Shelly Musselman (pictured) kept to the glittery spirit, if not the letter, of the law. Bolke and Musselman hosted the gala in a gold lamé tux jacket from Dsquared², and a mirrored Margiela gown, respectively. Musselman said what we were all thinking: “In our heart of hearts, don’t we all really want to be a deconstructed disco ball at the end of day?” Well, maybe what some of us were thinking. She paused and added oracularly: “It sees everything.” As for Bolke, he let his Moschino tee do the talking: “Shop.”
But shop they did, of high-end European labels and exclusive tenth anniversary items by attendees Doo-Ri Chung, Narciso Rodriguez, and Koi Suwannagate. (Carry a designer for a decade or so and you’re bound to rack up a few favors.) DJ Lucy Wrubel’s silver Moschino mini, embossed with the phrase “Fashion Must Go On,” certainly inspired the hundreds of loyal clients to drop their Centurion cards, at least when they weren’t juggling flutes of Dom Pérignon or pork hors d’oeuvres three ways (taco, tempura, and slider—this may be fashion, but it’s still Texas).
At 10 p.m., Raven Kauffman (in vintage Mila Schön), Suzanne Wilson (in DVF), and I headed to Kenny Goss and George Michael’s Highland Park home for more Champagne and a viewing of their amazing British art collection, including works by Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, and an amazing Angus Fairhurst gorilla displayed by the pool. The party continued, and close to midnight, the last guest arrived: the pizza boy. The famished crowd went wild. McQueen-clad Houston social Becca Cason Thrash confessed, “It’s Domino’s, and it’s divine!”
Balmain autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: FACE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11Balmania
Every season all eyes look to Balmain in Paris, because, no matter what trends are emerging at the other shows in other cities, who wouldn't want to look like an effortlessly beautiful Balmain woman? For autumn/winter 2010-11 in particular though, the "pared-down Parisian Balmain aesthetic" seems to have taken over, with a plethora of designers who might normally favour colour make-up statements or theatrical hair, such as Marc Jacobs, Matthew Williamsonand Prada, favouring a much more pared-down take on beauty. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux, who is a master colourist himself, took to his nude palette for this show, using a combination of contouring and highlighting to solely enhance the girls' natural beauty rather than change it. Hair stylist Sam McKnight also used the same formula, by simply washing girls' hair, ironing out any kinks and finishing with hairspray .
Balmain autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: FACE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11Balmania
Every season all eyes look to Balmain in Paris, because, no matter what trends are emerging at the other shows in other cities, who wouldn't want to look like an effortlessly beautiful Balmain woman? For autumn/winter 2010-11 in particular though, the "pared-down Parisian Balmain aesthetic" seems to have taken over, with a plethora of designers who might normally favour colour make-up statements or theatrical hair, such as Marc Jacobs, Matthew Williamsonand Prada, favouring a much more pared-down take on beauty. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux, who is a master colourist himself, took to his nude palette for this show, using a combination of contouring and highlighting to solely enhance the girls' natural beauty rather than change it. Hair stylist Sam McKnight also used the same formula, by simply washing girls' hair, ironing out any kinks and finishing with hairspray .
Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: EYES
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11The Horizon Line
New seasons always bring about new ways in which to spin classic looks, as make-up artists push themselves to think further outside the (make-up) box. This week in Paris, it has been all about horizontal-shaped eyes. At Isabel Marant, black flicks of liquid liner were extended straight from the outer corner, rather than following a customary feline, winged shape. However, at both Ann Demeulemeester and Jean Paul Gaultier eye liner was used in a more alternative way. At Ann Demeulemeester, Rudi Cremers for MAC Cosmetics, accented the face by tracing a broken line across the brow. Meanwhile at Jean Paul Gaultier, Stephane Marais slashed little lines at random across both the top of, and well underneath, both lash lines, further cementing how liner landscaping is the new way to wear black.
Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: EYES
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11The Horizon Line
New seasons always bring about new ways in which to spin classic looks, as make-up artists push themselves to think further outside the (make-up) box. This week in Paris, it has been all about horizontal-shaped eyes. At Isabel Marant, black flicks of liquid liner were extended straight from the outer corner, rather than following a customary feline, winged shape. However, at both Ann Demeulemeester and Jean Paul Gaultier eye liner was used in a more alternative way. At Ann Demeulemeester, Rudi Cremers for MAC Cosmetics, accented the face by tracing a broken line across the brow. Meanwhile at Jean Paul Gaultier, Stephane Marais slashed little lines at random across both the top of, and well underneath, both lash lines, further cementing how liner landscaping is the new way to wear black.
YSL autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: FACE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11Tickled Pink
Flashes of pink and peach accented an otherwise predominantly black, grey and nude collection for Stella McCartney in Paris yesterday morning. This acted as an appropriate introduction for the washes of colour that were to be seen later on in the day, at Emanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo, all of whom came over all girlie using fruity palettes of cerise and apricot for their beauty look. The Ungaro collection was a bright and eclectic one, so the face was relatively pared-down in comparison, with the only accent on the face being a sophisticated flush of pink on the centre of the lips and the apples of the cheeks. At YSL, however, the collection was mostly black with just a few notes of pink, green and blue in the final few looks, so designer Stefano Pilati used the models' faces to breathe some freshness into the collection with rosebud eyes and raspberry lips. At Kenzo, make-up artist Tom Pecheux was peachy keen on the colour he described as a "dry mustard", or off-orange, which he used on the eyes, temples and lips. In a season that has, by-and-large, paid homage to gothic and minimlistic beauty, it is refreshing to see some colours that are normally associated with summer being given the autumn/winter treatment.
YSL autumn/winter 2010-11, photographed by James CochraneBEAUTY TREND: FACE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11Tickled Pink
Flashes of pink and peach accented an otherwise predominantly black, grey and nude collection for Stella McCartney in Paris yesterday morning. This acted as an appropriate introduction for the washes of colour that were to be seen later on in the day, at Emanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo, all of whom came over all girlie using fruity palettes of cerise and apricot for their beauty look. The Ungaro collection was a bright and eclectic one, so the face was relatively pared-down in comparison, with the only accent on the face being a sophisticated flush of pink on the centre of the lips and the apples of the cheeks. At YSL, however, the collection was mostly black with just a few notes of pink, green and blue in the final few looks, so designer Stefano Pilati used the models' faces to breathe some freshness into the collection with rosebud eyes and raspberry lips. At Kenzo, make-up artist Tom Pecheux was peachy keen on the colour he described as a "dry mustard", or off-orange, which he used on the eyes, temples and lips. In a season that has, by-and-large, paid homage to gothic and minimlistic beauty, it is refreshing to see some colours that are normally associated with summer being given the autumn/winter treatment.
