With the state of couture in major flux and at least one storied house (Lacroix) on the brink of extinction, the masters of haute made-to-measure took a measured approach. There were pinstripes and sailor Ts at Gaultier, classics suits done with a flap motif chez Chanel, and beautiful Bar jackets at Dior, all of it reality-based. As for M. Lacroix, his collection, quite possibly his last, was full of signatures — extravagant decoration, poufs — distilled to subtle perfection.2009 FALL COUTURE
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