How to dress for a summer event

It’s a question of thinking, ‘Is this strapless minidress appropriate for a 3 o’clock wedding in Shropshire?’

Yasmin Le Bon's pink knitted dress for Wallis (£120)

I know it’s summer when I see them prepping the Royal Hospital for the Chelsea Flower Show. It’s when I start hugging myself with glee at the thought of all the ill-advised outfits that will soon be paraded across my manor by those who should know better. The sort of people who go to the smart parties at Chelsea are the sort of people who have money; an amazing number of them are proof that it has not bought them taste, or even common sense. Flower shows are no place for flower prints. You are not being witty, you are just competing with the wisteria, and the wisteria is winning.

Conversely, what looks good at Chelsea should stand the rest of us in pretty good stead at any summer event. First, some ground rules: struggling with anything you’re wearing is deeply unattractive. That means hats that blow away, sling-backs that slip, straps that fall off your shoulders. No, no, no. If it fits properly, it shouldn’t do that.

Spikes are obviously problematic if your day out is going to feature turf. Some people advocate wedges; I advocate finding a nice bit of path to stand on instead. True, Sod’s law decrees that it will be gravel – hardly the stiletto’s friend, but better that than ugly wedges or swaying inelegantly on the greensward.

Being cold is uncool, and we are all too old for it. It is a sad truth that the only people who are ever too hot at weddings are men. Churches are always cold, ditto marquees, ditto this whole benighted country once the sun’s gone down. Emigrate, or prepare accordingly. Wear a jacket, thermal underwear, a pashmina (though, please, not a cheap, flimsy one – N. Peal does cashmere scarves for £99 and shawls for £149), long sleeves, something, anything. These also have the desirable effect of covering up excess flesh – a much underrated summer virtue. It’s not a question of being prudish, it’s a question of thinking, “Is this strapless minidress appropriate for a 3 o’clock wedding in Shropshire?” For the record, the answer’s no.

Whistles has so many dresses you can hardly fail to find one to suit and, although I have doubts about the ruffle round the hem, Yasmin Le Bon’s pink knitted dress for Wallis (£120, pictured; would take you pretty much anywhere, and her oyster suede jacket (£120) might keep you warm. Gap and Asos are also good for jackets, and Joseph’s off-white cargo twill (£425; 020-7610 8441) is a good multitasker. (For what it’s worth, I have Serious Issues with Joseph’s prices, but the cost-per-wear of a jacket like this will be very, very low.)

Hats, sadly, seem to have pretty much bitten the dust at most events, but if you’re lucky enough to have an excuse, wear it right: don’t have it perched on the back of your head – pull it forward, and down. Think sassy, not mobcap. And don’t, I beg of you, be tempted by a fascinator. I do not lightly dismiss an accessory as stupid and pointless, but fascinators are both. Just say no.

Read more...

How to dress for a summer event

It’s a question of thinking, ‘Is this strapless minidress appropriate for a 3 o’clock wedding in Shropshire?’

Yasmin Le Bon's pink knitted dress for Wallis (£120)

I know it’s summer when I see them prepping the Royal Hospital for the Chelsea Flower Show. It’s when I start hugging myself with glee at the thought of all the ill-advised outfits that will soon be paraded across my manor by those who should know better. The sort of people who go to the smart parties at Chelsea are the sort of people who have money; an amazing number of them are proof that it has not bought them taste, or even common sense. Flower shows are no place for flower prints. You are not being witty, you are just competing with the wisteria, and the wisteria is winning.

Conversely, what looks good at Chelsea should stand the rest of us in pretty good stead at any summer event. First, some ground rules: struggling with anything you’re wearing is deeply unattractive. That means hats that blow away, sling-backs that slip, straps that fall off your shoulders. No, no, no. If it fits properly, it shouldn’t do that.

Spikes are obviously problematic if your day out is going to feature turf. Some people advocate wedges; I advocate finding a nice bit of path to stand on instead. True, Sod’s law decrees that it will be gravel – hardly the stiletto’s friend, but better that than ugly wedges or swaying inelegantly on the greensward.

Being cold is uncool, and we are all too old for it. It is a sad truth that the only people who are ever too hot at weddings are men. Churches are always cold, ditto marquees, ditto this whole benighted country once the sun’s gone down. Emigrate, or prepare accordingly. Wear a jacket, thermal underwear, a pashmina (though, please, not a cheap, flimsy one – N. Peal does cashmere scarves for £99 and shawls for £149), long sleeves, something, anything. These also have the desirable effect of covering up excess flesh – a much underrated summer virtue. It’s not a question of being prudish, it’s a question of thinking, “Is this strapless minidress appropriate for a 3 o’clock wedding in Shropshire?” For the record, the answer’s no.

Whistles has so many dresses you can hardly fail to find one to suit and, although I have doubts about the ruffle round the hem, Yasmin Le Bon’s pink knitted dress for Wallis (£120, pictured; would take you pretty much anywhere, and her oyster suede jacket (£120) might keep you warm. Gap and Asos are also good for jackets, and Joseph’s off-white cargo twill (£425; 020-7610 8441) is a good multitasker. (For what it’s worth, I have Serious Issues with Joseph’s prices, but the cost-per-wear of a jacket like this will be very, very low.)

Hats, sadly, seem to have pretty much bitten the dust at most events, but if you’re lucky enough to have an excuse, wear it right: don’t have it perched on the back of your head – pull it forward, and down. Think sassy, not mobcap. And don’t, I beg of you, be tempted by a fascinator. I do not lightly dismiss an accessory as stupid and pointless, but fascinators are both. Just say no.

Read more...

How we shop now

The politicians say it is an age of austerity, yet sales of It bags are booming. Welcome to the era of considered consumption, where we spend more on better-quality pieces, but buy fewer of them

Meet Marcie, Alexa and Rocco. Not three hot young things, but three hot new bags. Yours for £895, £695 and £795 respectively, they are fashion’s latest “must-have” items and almost impossible to get hold of. Because, believe it or not, the It bag is back. Sales are up — up at Selfridges (60% in the past year in designer handbags alone); up at Harvey Nichols (you’d better hotfoot it to get your hands on Chloe’s Marcie bag there, as it keeps selling out); up at Mulberry — with an online waiting list of 9,000 for its Alexa — and up at LVMH, which has posted a 13% increase in comparable first-quarter profits. You could be forgiven for thinking you’d fallen asleep in 2010 and woken up in the Wirral circa 2005. And, given the dawn of the new age of austerity our politicians keep telling us about, you could also be forgiven for thinking that the return of the It bag is a notion that rather sticks in the throat.

Before you harangue us all for having our heads buried too deep in our Alexas to notice what is happening in the world, rest assured that women’s shopping habits and the economic barometer are indeed linked. Our general spend on clothing dropped for the first time in nearly two decades in 2009, and buyer’s guilt set in fast. “We really were able to track the increase in items being returned against all those Lehman headlines,” says Sarah Curran, founder of my-wardrobe.com. “There would be a huge spike after a particularly bad story, thanks to buyer’s guilt.”

For the average shopper, 2010 will, undoubtedly, be nothing like the purchase-heavy playground of the heady days of the mid-Noughties. “My income has gone down by 50% from two years ago,” says Suzanne Noble, a business consultant and mother of two boys. “And it’s the same for all my friends. We simply can’t afford to go shopping like we used to.”

Burberry Prorsum shearling jacket

That doesn’t mean there isn’t still a hankering, though. Karen Pine, professor of developmental psychology at the University of Hertfordshire and the author of Sheconomics, says: “Women go shopping because they need the thrill, the kick, and those emotional reasons and psychological needs haven’t gone away. Shopping has become part of our language; we talk about what we bought and where we got it, and we value others’ ability to find bargains and look good. Just because money is in short supply, it doesn’t mean that changes. It just manifests itself in different ways.”

So, how does Noble scratch that fashion itch now? “My friends and I spend one Saturday a month going round the charity shops. We take £50 and say, ‘Okay, let’s see what we can get,’ then come back with four bags of clothes. Or I will just buy one thing that I really, really have to have. At the moment it’s an Acne blue-and-white-stripe maxidress that’s sold out everywhere. I just want one nice thing that is a must-have that I’m going to wear for the next three years.”

Her approach is typical of a trend that forecasters at The Future Laboratory call Considered Consumption. “You’ve got a more sophisticated consumer now,” says the retail guru Mary Portas. “They’re thinking, ‘Am I being a bit of a plonker here, just throwing money after this? Is it still going to be fabulous in a month’s time?” Consumers are also thinking about where they shop — and buying less and better is the message. “I’m disgusted by throwaway fashion now,” says Georgia Irwin, 29, a marketing director. “I was into it five years ago, and I still do a Topshop run every now and again, but I feel genuine guilt if I go into H&M to buy something I’m only going to wear once.”

The retail analyst Sarah Peters says it’s the top end, the more exciting products, that are selling. “People want a garment that stands out, is well designed and well made.” What they want — whether its Alexander Wang’s Rocco bag or Acne’s striped maxidress — is the wow factor. “People aren’t buying the things on our site they already have in their wardrobes, such as black trousers. They are buying key statement pieces,” says Curran. “Women cheer themselves up by treating themselves to something special.”

“Fashion has always responded to economic crises with luxury,” says the fashion historian Colin McDowell. “In the 1920s, when there were still problems after the first world war, Chanel encouraged people to buy by raising the hemline on skirts, which was shocking at the time. By the mid 1930s, post the Wall Street crash, fashion was all about glamorous clothes, and luxury was perfectly acceptable for those with money. Then, after the second world war, what did we see in Paris? Dior’s New Look, made from extravagant amounts of material.” And out of the early-1990s recÂession, we got Alexander McQueen.

Designers today are aware that if they want women to keep buying their clothes, they’d better come up with some good reasons why. “Being more and more creative attracts customers,” says the designer Christopher Kane. “People invest in pieces that will last and not depreciate in value. Good quality means good design.”

And it is that design, that individual creativity, that is driving fashion now. You only have to look at the hugely popular street-style phenomenon to see that what’s rated is not dressing by numbers, or following a trend, but statement pieces — and, crucially, how you style them, how you make them your own, whether it’s a Christopher Kane dress or something you picked up from Oxfam.

“I think the ‘it’ factor has got to come from the person,” says Joan Burstein, owner of Browns boutique. Says Portas: “I talk about status stories rather than status symbols. It’s a much more interesting and sexy way of dressing. It’s about where you got it from, what you managed to get it for and your own take on it, which I think we missed for a long time.” What’s clear is that the desire to shop is something that is holding hard. “Fashion will always have an important role in society,” Kane says. “People should be encouraged to look and feel good. It’s not being vain, it’s a part of life.”

They’ve got the wow factor

— The eagerly awaited SS10 Asos Black collection went on sale on May 14, and is a fairy-tale selection of chiffon and frills. Not your average high-street frock, there is a whimsical nude number which a real head-turner. £140.

— Designer shoes at high-street prices — denim wedges from Pierre Hardy’s sixth collaboration with Gap won’t hang around for long. £55.

— The go-to brand for laid-back cool, Rika is fast becoming the hot new label for those in the know. Get there before everyone else does. Leather shorts, £430, from The Shop at Bluebird; 020 7351 3873.

— The season’s must-have maxi, there is a striped number which is hot property and has been going for double on eBay. £150;start-london.com.

— The label Sandro was founded in Paris in 1984, but was introduced to Britain only a few years ago. An instant hit, the quirky pieces are flying off Fenwick’s rails. Already a sellout once, they have a jumpsuit will be back in store shortly. £189.

— Add a bit of bespoke to your wardrobe with a leather jacket from Allsaints. Each one is unique, with vintage biker badges, so you’ll never bump into anyone wearing the same. And that’s well worth the price tag, we think. £450.

— A hit for its feminine drapes and popping colours, Roksanda Ilincic’s second line for high-street hero Whistles is fast selling out, with a yellow dress topping the sales charts. £250.

— How to stand out when carrying the most talked-about bag of the season? Buy it in a limited-edition colour. Alexa bag, £796, by Mulberry, exclusive to Selfridges.com.

— On-trend leopard print? Practical wedge? You got it. Harvey Nichols reports sky-high sales of Opening Ceremony’s wedges. Grab a pair while you can. £335.

— Carven is the label on everyone’s lips Pieces from its new ready-to-wear line designed by Guillaume Henry will form the cornerstone of any wardrobe. From £130; net-a-porter.com.

Read more...

How we shop now

The politicians say it is an age of austerity, yet sales of It bags are booming. Welcome to the era of considered consumption, where we spend more on better-quality pieces, but buy fewer of them

Meet Marcie, Alexa and Rocco. Not three hot young things, but three hot new bags. Yours for £895, £695 and £795 respectively, they are fashion’s latest “must-have” items and almost impossible to get hold of. Because, believe it or not, the It bag is back. Sales are up — up at Selfridges (60% in the past year in designer handbags alone); up at Harvey Nichols (you’d better hotfoot it to get your hands on Chloe’s Marcie bag there, as it keeps selling out); up at Mulberry — with an online waiting list of 9,000 for its Alexa — and up at LVMH, which has posted a 13% increase in comparable first-quarter profits. You could be forgiven for thinking you’d fallen asleep in 2010 and woken up in the Wirral circa 2005. And, given the dawn of the new age of austerity our politicians keep telling us about, you could also be forgiven for thinking that the return of the It bag is a notion that rather sticks in the throat.

Before you harangue us all for having our heads buried too deep in our Alexas to notice what is happening in the world, rest assured that women’s shopping habits and the economic barometer are indeed linked. Our general spend on clothing dropped for the first time in nearly two decades in 2009, and buyer’s guilt set in fast. “We really were able to track the increase in items being returned against all those Lehman headlines,” says Sarah Curran, founder of my-wardrobe.com. “There would be a huge spike after a particularly bad story, thanks to buyer’s guilt.”

For the average shopper, 2010 will, undoubtedly, be nothing like the purchase-heavy playground of the heady days of the mid-Noughties. “My income has gone down by 50% from two years ago,” says Suzanne Noble, a business consultant and mother of two boys. “And it’s the same for all my friends. We simply can’t afford to go shopping like we used to.”

Burberry Prorsum shearling jacket

That doesn’t mean there isn’t still a hankering, though. Karen Pine, professor of developmental psychology at the University of Hertfordshire and the author of Sheconomics, says: “Women go shopping because they need the thrill, the kick, and those emotional reasons and psychological needs haven’t gone away. Shopping has become part of our language; we talk about what we bought and where we got it, and we value others’ ability to find bargains and look good. Just because money is in short supply, it doesn’t mean that changes. It just manifests itself in different ways.”

So, how does Noble scratch that fashion itch now? “My friends and I spend one Saturday a month going round the charity shops. We take £50 and say, ‘Okay, let’s see what we can get,’ then come back with four bags of clothes. Or I will just buy one thing that I really, really have to have. At the moment it’s an Acne blue-and-white-stripe maxidress that’s sold out everywhere. I just want one nice thing that is a must-have that I’m going to wear for the next three years.”

Her approach is typical of a trend that forecasters at The Future Laboratory call Considered Consumption. “You’ve got a more sophisticated consumer now,” says the retail guru Mary Portas. “They’re thinking, ‘Am I being a bit of a plonker here, just throwing money after this? Is it still going to be fabulous in a month’s time?” Consumers are also thinking about where they shop — and buying less and better is the message. “I’m disgusted by throwaway fashion now,” says Georgia Irwin, 29, a marketing director. “I was into it five years ago, and I still do a Topshop run every now and again, but I feel genuine guilt if I go into H&M to buy something I’m only going to wear once.”

The retail analyst Sarah Peters says it’s the top end, the more exciting products, that are selling. “People want a garment that stands out, is well designed and well made.” What they want — whether its Alexander Wang’s Rocco bag or Acne’s striped maxidress — is the wow factor. “People aren’t buying the things on our site they already have in their wardrobes, such as black trousers. They are buying key statement pieces,” says Curran. “Women cheer themselves up by treating themselves to something special.”

“Fashion has always responded to economic crises with luxury,” says the fashion historian Colin McDowell. “In the 1920s, when there were still problems after the first world war, Chanel encouraged people to buy by raising the hemline on skirts, which was shocking at the time. By the mid 1930s, post the Wall Street crash, fashion was all about glamorous clothes, and luxury was perfectly acceptable for those with money. Then, after the second world war, what did we see in Paris? Dior’s New Look, made from extravagant amounts of material.” And out of the early-1990s recÂession, we got Alexander McQueen.

Designers today are aware that if they want women to keep buying their clothes, they’d better come up with some good reasons why. “Being more and more creative attracts customers,” says the designer Christopher Kane. “People invest in pieces that will last and not depreciate in value. Good quality means good design.”

And it is that design, that individual creativity, that is driving fashion now. You only have to look at the hugely popular street-style phenomenon to see that what’s rated is not dressing by numbers, or following a trend, but statement pieces — and, crucially, how you style them, how you make them your own, whether it’s a Christopher Kane dress or something you picked up from Oxfam.

“I think the ‘it’ factor has got to come from the person,” says Joan Burstein, owner of Browns boutique. Says Portas: “I talk about status stories rather than status symbols. It’s a much more interesting and sexy way of dressing. It’s about where you got it from, what you managed to get it for and your own take on it, which I think we missed for a long time.” What’s clear is that the desire to shop is something that is holding hard. “Fashion will always have an important role in society,” Kane says. “People should be encouraged to look and feel good. It’s not being vain, it’s a part of life.”

They’ve got the wow factor

— The eagerly awaited SS10 Asos Black collection went on sale on May 14, and is a fairy-tale selection of chiffon and frills. Not your average high-street frock, there is a whimsical nude number which a real head-turner. £140.

— Designer shoes at high-street prices — denim wedges from Pierre Hardy’s sixth collaboration with Gap won’t hang around for long. £55.

— The go-to brand for laid-back cool, Rika is fast becoming the hot new label for those in the know. Get there before everyone else does. Leather shorts, £430, from The Shop at Bluebird; 020 7351 3873.

— The season’s must-have maxi, there is a striped number which is hot property and has been going for double on eBay. £150;start-london.com.

— The label Sandro was founded in Paris in 1984, but was introduced to Britain only a few years ago. An instant hit, the quirky pieces are flying off Fenwick’s rails. Already a sellout once, they have a jumpsuit will be back in store shortly. £189.

— Add a bit of bespoke to your wardrobe with a leather jacket from Allsaints. Each one is unique, with vintage biker badges, so you’ll never bump into anyone wearing the same. And that’s well worth the price tag, we think. £450.

— A hit for its feminine drapes and popping colours, Roksanda Ilincic’s second line for high-street hero Whistles is fast selling out, with a yellow dress topping the sales charts. £250.

— How to stand out when carrying the most talked-about bag of the season? Buy it in a limited-edition colour. Alexa bag, £796, by Mulberry, exclusive to Selfridges.com.

— On-trend leopard print? Practical wedge? You got it. Harvey Nichols reports sky-high sales of Opening Ceremony’s wedges. Grab a pair while you can. £335.

— Carven is the label on everyone’s lips Pieces from its new ready-to-wear line designed by Guillaume Henry will form the cornerstone of any wardrobe. From £130; net-a-porter.com.

Read more...

Jessica Biel - Jessica Biel's Fashion Torture

Jessica Biel picture

Jessica Biel's Fashion Torture


Jessica Biel sometimes feels ''tortured'' by fashion because she's worries she doesn't look good enough.

Jessica Biel sometimes feels "tortured" by fashion.

The stunning actress - who is dating heartthrob singer Justin Timberlake - admits she's not a natural style icon and wears whatever she feels comfortable in but sometimes worries she doesn't look good enough.

She said: "I'm not someone who has this amazing instinct about fashion. Sometimes I cannot be bothered, kind of like today. I just throw on whatever is comfortable. Other days I will torture myself - do I want to do funky and cool, or feminine?"

Jessica admits she's quite a tomboy and has always liked wearing casual clothes.

She told America's Glamour magazine: "Yeah. I literally spent most of my teenage years in Umbro shorts and No Fear T-shirts."

Jessica is known for her slender figure and says it's a result of regular exercise.

She said: "I like to do a couple of yoga classes during the week, mixed in with weight training sessions for strength. And yoga for me is more of an elongating thing. I hike and walk my dogs a lot. It keeps me very clear-headed."

Read more...

Jessica Biel - Jessica Biel's Fashion Torture

Jessica Biel picture

Jessica Biel's Fashion Torture


Jessica Biel sometimes feels ''tortured'' by fashion because she's worries she doesn't look good enough.

Jessica Biel sometimes feels "tortured" by fashion.

The stunning actress - who is dating heartthrob singer Justin Timberlake - admits she's not a natural style icon and wears whatever she feels comfortable in but sometimes worries she doesn't look good enough.

She said: "I'm not someone who has this amazing instinct about fashion. Sometimes I cannot be bothered, kind of like today. I just throw on whatever is comfortable. Other days I will torture myself - do I want to do funky and cool, or feminine?"

Jessica admits she's quite a tomboy and has always liked wearing casual clothes.

She told America's Glamour magazine: "Yeah. I literally spent most of my teenage years in Umbro shorts and No Fear T-shirts."

Jessica is known for her slender figure and says it's a result of regular exercise.

She said: "I like to do a couple of yoga classes during the week, mixed in with weight training sessions for strength. And yoga for me is more of an elongating thing. I hike and walk my dogs a lot. It keeps me very clear-headed."

Read more...

Fantasy, exotica and grace rule in Central St Martins BA show

Central St. Martins BA graduate show

Central St. Martins BA graduate show

The world’s hottest fashion college, Central Saint Martins, turned its back on minimalism, in London last night, with an exotic, colourful, triumphant display of creativity.

Its BA graduate show, featuring the collections of 40 of the college’s top students, explored every inspiration from fantasy to futurism. Gone were themonochromatic, uber-minimalist, joyless processionals of previous years.

In their place were astonishing degrees of skill using unconventional materials such as wood, rubber, man-mades and metals, alongside the softer, more tactile expected silks, velvets and satins.

The L’Oréal Professionnel Award for Young Talent, was won by Yi Fang Wan, who showed an extremely graceful, layered collection in soft pink and ivory , incorporating intricate pleating ansd draping to create airy volume, interspersed with fitted, softly tailoredpieces. The first runner-up was Phillip Patterson with a very well-executed menswear collection in khakiand charcoal with washed knits and longer shirts under shorter jackets; it could have walked straight off the catwalk into any menswear boutique. Alex Mullins was second runner-up, also with menswear, but the polar opposite of Patterson’s. Mullins’ surreal romp, with overtones of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, mixed inflatable jackets, fringing, bunting fluttering across a red, white and blue suit, and one model wearing a paintbrush on his head.

There were special mentions for Eloise Jephson, whose dinosaur-inspired prints, enchanting on swirling silk chiffon, with matching turbans, were best-in-show. Magical lions, tigers, and giraffes were glimpsed amongst unearthly foliage, savages with spears and colourful butterflies. Also in for an SM was Sorcha O’Raghallaigh, who closed the show with stilt-walkers, instead of models, towering over the audience in a fantastical parade of ‘wedding’ costumes, including a flower-girl, bridesmaid and bride, in bejewelled knits, floral-appliqued crocheted, rose-strewn silks, and lace, veiled in gossamer-like tulle.

There was even room for a smile and a laugh or too, and why not? Fashion should not take itself too seriously. Onez Lau produced a hilarious knitwearcollection which included a complete horse’s head, plain-and-purled into the front of a cardigan, and a reindeer-pattern dress with the slogan ‘Oh Deer!’ on the back, while Hiroko Nakajima almost used everything but the kitchen sink in his collection which incorporated furniture and soft furnishings into clothes - apicture frame as a necklace; curtains on a pole to exaggerate strong shoulders - and finished with a model “dressed” as a green brocade, gold fringed armchair.

The student fashion season continues today, June 2nd, with Westminster’s BA show. London College of Fashion shows on June 3rd, Instituto Marangoni on June 4th and Brighton on June 5th. Graduate Fashion Week, sponsored by River Island, and featuring BA student collections from more than 60 universities and fashion colleges, opens at London’s Earls Court 2, on Sunday, June 6th.


Read more...

Fantasy, exotica and grace rule in Central St Martins BA show

Central St. Martins BA graduate show

Central St. Martins BA graduate show

The world’s hottest fashion college, Central Saint Martins, turned its back on minimalism, in London last night, with an exotic, colourful, triumphant display of creativity.

Its BA graduate show, featuring the collections of 40 of the college’s top students, explored every inspiration from fantasy to futurism. Gone were themonochromatic, uber-minimalist, joyless processionals of previous years.

In their place were astonishing degrees of skill using unconventional materials such as wood, rubber, man-mades and metals, alongside the softer, more tactile expected silks, velvets and satins.

The L’Oréal Professionnel Award for Young Talent, was won by Yi Fang Wan, who showed an extremely graceful, layered collection in soft pink and ivory , incorporating intricate pleating ansd draping to create airy volume, interspersed with fitted, softly tailoredpieces. The first runner-up was Phillip Patterson with a very well-executed menswear collection in khakiand charcoal with washed knits and longer shirts under shorter jackets; it could have walked straight off the catwalk into any menswear boutique. Alex Mullins was second runner-up, also with menswear, but the polar opposite of Patterson’s. Mullins’ surreal romp, with overtones of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, mixed inflatable jackets, fringing, bunting fluttering across a red, white and blue suit, and one model wearing a paintbrush on his head.

There were special mentions for Eloise Jephson, whose dinosaur-inspired prints, enchanting on swirling silk chiffon, with matching turbans, were best-in-show. Magical lions, tigers, and giraffes were glimpsed amongst unearthly foliage, savages with spears and colourful butterflies. Also in for an SM was Sorcha O’Raghallaigh, who closed the show with stilt-walkers, instead of models, towering over the audience in a fantastical parade of ‘wedding’ costumes, including a flower-girl, bridesmaid and bride, in bejewelled knits, floral-appliqued crocheted, rose-strewn silks, and lace, veiled in gossamer-like tulle.

There was even room for a smile and a laugh or too, and why not? Fashion should not take itself too seriously. Onez Lau produced a hilarious knitwearcollection which included a complete horse’s head, plain-and-purled into the front of a cardigan, and a reindeer-pattern dress with the slogan ‘Oh Deer!’ on the back, while Hiroko Nakajima almost used everything but the kitchen sink in his collection which incorporated furniture and soft furnishings into clothes - apicture frame as a necklace; curtains on a pole to exaggerate strong shoulders - and finished with a model “dressed” as a green brocade, gold fringed armchair.

The student fashion season continues today, June 2nd, with Westminster’s BA show. London College of Fashion shows on June 3rd, Instituto Marangoni on June 4th and Brighton on June 5th. Graduate Fashion Week, sponsored by River Island, and featuring BA student collections from more than 60 universities and fashion colleges, opens at London’s Earls Court 2, on Sunday, June 6th.


Read more...

Get your skates on

Release your inner roller girl with cute shorts and ’70s-style
























Bodysuit, £22, Love Label at Littlewoods; belt, £12, American Apparel; socks, £13, American Apparel; socks, £13, American Apparel

T-shirt, £40, Miss Sixty; playsuit, £14.99; Uniqlo; bumbag, £15, American Apparel; watch, £49.95, Timex; socks as before

NASIA (LEFT) Top, £20, Adidas; shorts, £16, American Apparel; sunglasses, £2, Primark; necklace, £15, H! by Henry Holland at Debenhams; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; bag, £35, Anna Lou of London; socks, £13, American Apparel

RACHEL Yellow vest, £25, white vest, £25, both Nike; shorts, £16, American Apparel; sunglasses, £8.50, Claire's; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; necklace, £25, Anna Lou of London; bumbag, £15, American Apparel; green watch, £20, yellow watch, £20, blue watch, £20, all Oasis; socks, as before

NASIA (LEFT) Top, £22, Next; shorts, £35, Supreme Being; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; socks, as before

RACHEL Jacket, £45, American Apparel; playsuit, £45, bumbag, £25, both I Dream Of Wires; necklace, £27.50, Anna Lou of London; socks, as before

Top, £55, Reformed at Urban Outfitters; shorts, £18, Miss Soviet at USC; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; socks, as before



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Get your skates on

Release your inner roller girl with cute shorts and ’70s-style
























Bodysuit, £22, Love Label at Littlewoods; belt, £12, American Apparel; socks, £13, American Apparel; socks, £13, American Apparel

T-shirt, £40, Miss Sixty; playsuit, £14.99; Uniqlo; bumbag, £15, American Apparel; watch, £49.95, Timex; socks as before

NASIA (LEFT) Top, £20, Adidas; shorts, £16, American Apparel; sunglasses, £2, Primark; necklace, £15, H! by Henry Holland at Debenhams; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; bag, £35, Anna Lou of London; socks, £13, American Apparel

RACHEL Yellow vest, £25, white vest, £25, both Nike; shorts, £16, American Apparel; sunglasses, £8.50, Claire's; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; necklace, £25, Anna Lou of London; bumbag, £15, American Apparel; green watch, £20, yellow watch, £20, blue watch, £20, all Oasis; socks, as before

NASIA (LEFT) Top, £22, Next; shorts, £35, Supreme Being; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; socks, as before

RACHEL Jacket, £45, American Apparel; playsuit, £45, bumbag, £25, both I Dream Of Wires; necklace, £27.50, Anna Lou of London; socks, as before

Top, £55, Reformed at Urban Outfitters; shorts, £18, Miss Soviet at USC; headphones, £39.99, Fenchurch; socks, as before



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